Ford 4600

[JohnBoy]

No sooner is the 20 out the door, than the 4600 is in.....

So, this one is in the family since before my time.

It was bought, we think a year or two old, by my wife's father. When she was 12 it became her tractor and he bought a 7600. He passed away over ten years ago and the farm was rented out and the 4600 went on scraper duty with the tenants for a number of years. The loader was “borrowed” for most of that time too, it mysteriously turned up in the yard 2 years ago.

The 4600 originally had a fritzmeir cab on it, but it was completely rotten, we removed it around 6 years ago and started into a rebuild, but it went nowhere as we bought a house, had babies etc.

2 years ago we got some newer wheels from nash's neigbours and dragged it up to a mechanic near us. We threw a pile of money and parts at it and got the remains of a ford safety cab, and that’s what it looked like.



So now it’s mostly sat in the back yard since, done some work around the house but it’s been waiting it’s turn in the projects list. Now we need it to actually do some work on the farm it’ll be getting a similar treatment to the 20, sorting some mechanical details to make it more useable really. The plan is to have it on the farm in by the end of march!!!.


I have pages of lists for this one, but they’re mostly either cosmetic or upgrades. It actually needs very little to be useable as a tractor. I’m hoping to do some of the upgrades now as I’m in the area.

Buy paint for whole tractor (to get matching batch numbers)
Dismantle cab frame, clean up and paint.
Remove wheels, narrow track settings 1 step in.
Line wings with stonechip and cow mat
Line roof with stonechip and cow mat
Strip axle trumpets and paint.
Relocate loader spool valve
Relocate loader spool levers
Fabricate hydraulic return pipe
Replace worn LH steering arm
Replace brake pedal bushes, repair pedal link slider
Fit windscreen
Source and fit panels below windscreen
Fit doors
Source and fit side windows.


I’d say I haven’t a hope in hell of getting all that done in 5.5 weeks, but sure we’ll see how far we can go.

The bigger picture would be to use it for the summer and then bring it home, strip it and paint it next winter, then refit it's own loader onto it. (that's another loader i bought cheap cos it came with a cabled spool valve)

 

[mf35]

50hp or so tractor looks good in the photo i say, you didn't mention the engine, must be in good condition etc most of the work comestic so

 

[Michael]

Looks a nice project.
If your looking for another 4600 to do up you can gladly take our one :thumbup2:

 

[JohnBoy]

the engine is good, had a porous scare last year, but think it might just have been sh*te in the cooling system, because it hasnt come back yet, and I dont think porosity goes away.


engine, clutch and box were all viewed as ok by the mechanic. it got new brakes, bearings and seals in the back and a 95% rebuild of the front axle/steering.


It's mostly cosmetic/upgrades that's left.


supposed to be 62hp in there somewhere :)

 

[Michael]

the engine is good, had a porous scare last year, but think it might just have been sh*te in the cooling system, because it hasnt come back yet, and I dont think porosity goes away.


engine, clutch and box were all viewed as ok by the mechanic. it got new brakes, bearings and seals in the back and a 95% rebuild of the front axle/steering.


It's mostly cosmetic/upgrades that's left.


supposed to be 62hp in there somewhere :)

Great little tractors and very nippy about the yards. Bit light for loader work but make up for it in tight yards and low sheds

Nice to see it being looked after. Have you another loader for it you where saying above ??

 

[JohnBoy]

yeah, the original loader is the proper power loader version of that one. that one's a terrible power loader conversion, the geometry is all wrong.


our own loader needs some work doing to it though so that yoke can stay on it for now.

 

[kverneland es 80]

did u get the 20 down to bandon

 

[JohnBoy]

yeah, got it down friday. spent the day drawing in timber with it on saturday.

 

[JohnBoy]

First job.....

The spool block for the loader is mounted onto the removable upright, it's completely exposed, the cables pass through the step and the handles stick into the doorway.

So the plan is to move the valve in here, then the cables can run straighter, go behind the axle and come up a little bit lower and more horizontal in the cab. I'll cut the handles and reweld them pointing pretty much straight up.

The return pipe needs to be rotated upwards, and the supply ideally needs to be shortened too, but I've a different long term plan for that so it can stay looped down for now.

 

[nashmach]

I'd be careful narrowing her much more if it was me.

My "neighbour" will probably sort you out with doors too.

 

[mf35]

hmmm are you getting oil the hydraulic oil from the tractor main hydraulic pump in the rear end i assume you can use a Hydraulic transport Box from the Ford 4600

 

[JohnBoy]

I'd be careful narrowing her much more if it was me.

My "neighbour" will probably sort you out with doors too.

I can easily afford to go in a step. tis 7 feet wide nearly at the moment. I'll probably hold till I see it round the farmyard, but it'll be one hell of a squeeze into the cubicle houses.

he'd probably have doors alright, but he's not too fond of receipts so only of use if he's real cheap, which he sometimes is.

hmmm are you getting oil the hydraulic oil from the tractor main hydraulic pump in the rear end i assume you can use a Hydraulic transport Box from the Ford 4600

Selector valve on the top cover, and right now I couldnt use a hydraulic box, no, it's linkage or external services. There's a mode that supplies both but no idea how you're supposed to use the external service if the linkage is down.

Long term I'll fit an engine pump and run the external services off that, with the top cover acting as a supplementary supply to it. I have a 2 spool valve chest to fit for that job too.


but that's way down the line.


pottered away at the weekend on this, cut off the original spool mount, cut up a cab mount from a 2600 and a bit of angle down south and welded up this mount that puts the valve pretty much exactly where I wanted it. Could do with being another inch back to be be perfect, but it’s a huge improvement in where it was. No doubt tinman is shaking his head at the single digit thicknesses of the materials involved 

Repositioning the spool allowed me to route the cables back around the axle, which both keeps them up out of the way, and brings them into the cab at a nicer angle. I moved them down a few inches and also cut and bent the levers so they don’t protrude into the door opening at all.

Next up is to fit the weight carrier and sort the hydraulic return line, I hate the way it just goes back in through the filler cap like that.

 

[JohnBoy]

Two jobs on the go at the same time here.

Dunno why I've taken a notion to fitting the weight frame at this stage, but I have. simple job, I just need to cut the frame to fit around the loader's front mountings then I'll weld em together. Simples.


The hydraulic oil return is typical of it's day, a hose barb brazed onto the oil plug. Personally I think it sucks. I came across a guy in the north selling plumbing/hydraulic bits cheap and got a 1.5 bsp to 1.635 JIC adapter, a 1.5bsp lock ring, plug, a weld in boss and some hose barbs. I need to drill the boss, weld in another boss and fit the barb. I'll need to remake the plug as it's not actually possible to remove it with the seat.

 

[nashmach]

That looks far far tidier John!

Is there not a plug on the opposite side for these though rather than using the filler plug, seem to recall that on the two 3x00's here and the 4610.

 

[JohnBoy]

double check the 3x00s, but I dont think so. if there's a proper plug that'd help, but I dont think there is.

The 10 series have a second identical filler hole alright.

 

[JohnBoy]

Wednesday night is shed night....


First off was the loader mounts/weight carrier. Cut it out and refitted the parts, tacked and took it back off. I'd veed out the join, but hadnt aligned the cuts perfectly as it's kinda awkward to remove and refit so I just did it once and left a bit of a gap.

two passes each side with a smaller rod up high, then one pass at the same current with the thicker rods to finish. I really should pay more attention to the technicalities, but tis only a normal farmer spec welder so everything is done on feel, not settings.

I was happy with how it all came out, but given the good heavy steel and the fact that nothing was welded out of position it'd want to look as good as it does.

To get the diagonal braces reinstalled I wanted to back the tractor onto the gravel, bury the fork and then drive forward.

it seemed like a good idea at the time, unti I realised that puddle wasnt being caused by the rain, but by the hydraulic oil I was pumping straight out through the god dammed return line that I'm also working on.

That obviously enough focused my attention back onto the return line job. I've very little room between the pipe coming up and the top link draft assembly which means I need to fit my pipe boss very very flush. I'm going with a 1/2bsp return port as a 3/4 one would have left me eating into the threads above and below.

Drilled out to 20mm using my trusty argos €70 drill press. a couple of steps, patience and some good cutting lube make this machine do extraordinary things.

I took an old quick connect plug and cut and ground it to fit, then welded it in place and ground it down until it would fit. I went a bit too far on the grinding so I think I'll grind it all off and start again, I'm thinking about building it up with weld instead and just drilling and tapping directly for the hose barb cos I'm not happy with how it's worked out.

 

[JohnBoy]

These cast plugs are poor enough quality, this is as far as it'll screw in, which isn't good enough. The seat base would stop it from being removed/fitted.

cut it off and rewelded it flush with the top of the pipe. also threaded in the barb. it's not going in very far, but it's only gotta hold a low pressure hose so it should be fine.

Fitted it up and tested topped up the oil, I'm well happy, but couldnt drop the arms fully so I'm not sure if my hose routing is gonna be an issue, how snug will the upper lift arms get....

Out of curiousity i took off the plug then ran up the hydraulics, kind of a hydraulic action shot :)

 

[Ptk44]

These cast plugs are poor enough quality, this is as far as it'll screw in, which isn't good enough. The seat base would stop it from being removed/fitted.

cut it off and rewelded it flush with the top of the pipe. also threaded in the barb. it's not going in very far, but it's only gotta hold a low pressure hose so it should be fine.

Fitted it up and tested topped up the oil, I'm well happy, but couldnt drop the arms fully so I'm not sure if my hose routing is gonna be an issue, how snug will the upper lift arms get....

Out of curiousity i took off the plug then ran up the hydraulics, kind of a hydraulic action shot :)

nice one!

 

[tinman]

fair play johnboy, your turnin out to be a right handy lad.

did you just cut the head off the plug in the end?
its rare they would thread in that far.
and did ya have a tap for the 3/4 bsp?.
id of made up a hyd hose for it, but you will get away with the jubilee clip.

i never seen this thread til now tbh.
thats a clean lookin wee tractor hi.
i didnt feel too well after seeing the bracket, but im over the worst of it now..

 

[JohnBoy]

did you just cut the head off the plug in the end?
its rare they would thread in that far.

I threaded it into a spare fitting as far as it would easily go, cut it flush with the fitting, then cut the remaining "thread" where it widens out to the casting and welded it back on, gives a perfectly flush fitting cap.

and did ya have a tap for the 3/4 bsp?.
id of made up a hyd hose for it, but you will get away with the jubilee clip.

ended up using 1/2bsp as the 3/4 wouldnt have left much thread top and bottom for the 1 1/2 fittings. I didnt get a tap yet, hence why the barb only screws in a short distance, but I'll sort it when it comes apart for painting.

As can be seen from the action shot there's sod all pressure, so no need for a hydraulic hose. I've a few more longer term plans for the hydraulics so no point in commiting anything to crimped pipes yet.

i never seen this thread til now tbh.
thats a clean lookin wee tractor hi.
i didnt feel too well after seeing the bracket, but im over the worst of it now..

It's not too bad at this stage, but bear in mind that the only original tinwork is the dash and the bonnet. the roof, wings, cab frame, nose, and all four wheels are either new or good second hand. everything else was red rotten.


I'll use a lump of channel somewhere else to make up for the bracket :)

 

[JohnBoy]

Anyone got any pics of a foot throttle linkage on a 4000/4600? trying to install a kit, but I've no idea how it links into the hand throttle :(

Done
Relocate loader spool valve
Relocate loader spool levers
Reverse hydraulic fittings for bucket crowd valve
Fabricate hydraulic return pipe


Will definitely be done
Replace brake pedal bushes, repair pedal link slider
Fit foot throttle kit
Replace worn LH steering arm
Line wings with stonechip and cow mat
Line roof with stonechip and cow mat


Unlikely to happen
Fit windscreen
Source and fit panels below windscreen
Fit doors
Remove wheels, narrow track settings 1 step in.
Source and fit side windows.
Strip axle trumpets and paint.
Buy paint for whole tractor (to get matching batch numbers)
Dismantle cab frame, clean up and paint.

 

[nashmach]

I'll have a look on the 3600 if I am near it later John.

 

[JohnBoy]

Panic not!

 

[nashmach]

Panic not!

Grand!

Had a look and ours has a guard around it so needed to get a screwdriver:D

 

[JohnBoy]

it's the guard that had me confused, obviously all the magic happens behind the guard :)