Power Washer problems

aidank

Well-Known Member
Good evening everyone,

well you remember me posting about my powerwasher in this thread here http://www.forum4farming.com/forum/index.php?threads/charging-9v-battery.15574/

as per the label on the starter I was incorrect and its a 12v battery- btw should I be able to start it by jumping it from a tractor battery, I can't see why not?

Anyway after some time investigating why it wouldn't start I discovered the injector pump wasn't giving out enough fuel so I removed it from the washer to find there is a bit broken off it. See pictures attached.

Well I guess the broken piece is gone down to the bottom of the engine, will I destroy the engine if I run it without fishing out the piece. The piece is approx 7mm long 4mm wide, 3mm thick.

I guess try and drain the oil and see does it come out in it and then a magnet if not successful I guess.

injector pump.jpg
 

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It probably wouldn't destroy anything but I did hear a caution from an engine reconditioning firm about damage with loose objects in timing gears. usually 12v is compatible with any 12 volt system when it comes to current controlled electronics like radios. I did fry a solenoid in a mk2 vw once by starting it with a tractor battery. a talented engineer swore hand over fist it couldn't happen but just warning you.
 
Drain the oil out Aidan and rattle the engine about with it tipped towards the drain hole. That bit of metal will most likely never cause any trouble but there is that tiny chance it could and you'd prefer not have it in there. Maybe throw a cup of diesel into the sump and see if that might wash the broken bit out?. As far as jumping it goes any 12v source is fine.
 
The boss here jumped a car from a tractor once. It burned out a solenoid and the starter went shortly afterwards. The wiring wasn't up to the extra current
 
Was told by a mechanic that you shouldn’t start the ‘dead’ vehicle while the good one is still connected to its battery as when the ‘dead’ vehicle starts it can cause a spike of power that can blow computers, etc in modern vehicles. He says the running vehicle should only be used to charge the ‘dead’ one and then remove jump leads before attempting to start second vehicle
 
To
Was told by a mechanic that you shouldn’t start the ‘dead’ vehicle while the good one is still connected to its battery as when the ‘dead’ vehicle starts it can cause a spike of power that can blow computers, etc in modern vehicles. He says the running vehicle should only be used to charge the ‘dead’ one and then remove jump leads before attempting to start second vehicle

Totally agree with that, know a man who tried to jump a dead tractor from a merc. Caused awful hardship with wiring problems the year after, traded in then.
 
Was told by a mechanic that you shouldn’t start the ‘dead’ vehicle while the good one is still connected to its battery as when the ‘dead’ vehicle starts it can cause a spike of power that can blow computers, etc in modern vehicles. He says the running vehicle should only be used to charge the ‘dead’ one and then remove jump leads before attempting to start second vehicle
I agree with the theory but unfortunately it's not a very practical practice. Usually jumping is carried out in a hurry or when you've already been delayed for a while so it's usually leads on and start in 99% of cases. Also the extra few volts from the running vehicle are a great help for the dead battery vehicle as usually if the battery is flat chances are the vehicle is hard to start anyway. How long would you need to leave leads on to transfer enough power to dead battery to start up? 20 minutes? But it's true, as soon as dead battery vehicle starts the alternator goes into max production mode which can be in excess of 100 amps and if this surge finds your ECU well then you'll wish you'd kept the auld 135 as a jumper tractor!
MF30
 
To


Totally agree with that, know a man who tried to jump a dead tractor from a merc. Caused awful hardship with wiring problems the year after, traded in then.
Know a man myself that believe it or not used jump his merc off the Lorry. Apparently the car used go a bit nuts at times and nothing could get it to go and out of madness he jumped it off 24v and away it went. That was according to him now :unsure:
 
I used work in a car auctions. Some yokes would start for nothing other than 24v. Used have the key turned to start then switch on the powerpack. Dash would light up nice and bright, if you didn't turn on the 24v with the starter engaged you'd blow all the dash lights.
 
Back with another question. I got the machine started after replacing the pump btw. Am I going to damage the alternator if I don’t replace the battery? I don’t use the machine a lot and the pull start is working out ok

Question the battery in this machine is worn out only holds 8v when machine is switched off, the alternator brings it to 12v when running.
 
Pull start? Should have a magneto and a voltage regulator. Should be grand with no battery, but tape up the connections so they don't earth on anything.

If you leave them connected to a bad battery you could boil it and have acid leaking from the battery.
 
Back with another question. I got the machine started after replacing the pump btw. Am I going to damage the alternator if I don’t replace the battery? I don’t use the machine a lot and the pull start is working out ok

Question the battery in this machine is worn out only holds 8v when machine is switched off, the alternator brings it to 12v when running.
If this was a tractor we were talking about, yes you would damage the alternator by attempting to charge a knackered battery. In such a case, the regulator allows the alternator to produce maximum amps trying to charge the battery whereas if battery was good the alternator produces a good burst of amps initially, then this tapers off to maintenance amps. An alternator producing max amps constantly won't last long and things get hot. Use a small good car battery from a scrapyard to keep things happy, you can get one from local scrappy for €20. Might need a larger battery tray but you take your chances with this subject.
MF30
 
We were discussing jump starting at a technical meeting ( elevenzes ) and apparently you are meant to leave the headlights on on the starting vehicle so when the dead one fires up the excess current is used by the lights which will glow brighter or blow the bulbs
I had to jump the mighty 168 yesterday morning and used the Volvo. I've done it several times with the loader before but yesterday morning I was rushing and used the right side battery not thinking. Well I've never seen a drive out of a starter like it in my life. Had the old lady singing in about 2.5 seconds :laugh:. Twas actually only when telling the brother that it dawned on me what I'd done and given the old lady 24v instead of 12. It's the left side battery is the 12v on the L30 but thankfully there's nothing burnt out. Oddly enough the tractor fired up with a great turnover this morning while yesterday it was to sluggish to start it.
 
I had to jump the mighty 168 yesterday morning and used the Volvo. I've done it several times with the loader before but yesterday morning I was rushing and used the right side battery not thinking. Well I've never seen a drive out of a starter like it in my life. Had the old lady singing in about 2.5 seconds :laugh:. Twas actually only when telling the brother that it dawned on me what I'd done and given the old lady 24v instead of 12. It's the left side battery is the 12v on the L30 but thankfully there's nothing burnt out. Oddly enough the tractor fired up with a great turnover this morning while yesterday it was to sluggish to start it.

If you took the 2 leads from one battery you had only 12v regardless of side

Or did you have one lead attached to metal work of machine
 
If you took the 2 leads from one battery you had only 12v regardless of side

Or did you have one lead attached to metal work of machine
I had both leads on the one battery Aidan. If I'd stopped the loader and knocked off the isolator then I'd have 12v on either battery but with it running the right side battery is 24v.
 
That doesn't sound right if both leads are on the one battery you can only get 12v. If you took positive off one battery and attached to metal work you might get 24 on one side.
 
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