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Read before the rule of thumb is about 6 or 7 hp per ft minimum for doubles as you will be concentrating harder and driving slower then if you just had a rear.

Always found John deere mowers very power hungry. Hard keep the revs up
 
LoughreeMan said:
Read before the rule of thumb is about 6 or 7 hp per ft minimum for doubles as you will be concentrating harder and driving slower then if you just had a rear.

Always found John deere mowers very power hungry. Hard keep the revs up
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If you were driving at 3/4 the speed and doing 1/2 the amount of idle headland turns you will probably cut near twice as much on less fuel per acre.
 
AHC said:
The 6820 got a claas headgasket and a remap, she’s making 201 at the shaft now and can fly on with the lelys not that they are hard driven admittedly.
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I have a 6820 and it’s great but I think she would be under fair pressure to push a front press with paddles while sowing with the 3m one pass.
I am curious about two things if you don’t mind me asking.
What do you mean saying it got a class head gasket?
What hours has she up and what needs refurbishing?
Mine has about 7,500 up now.
 
KTM 450 said:
I have a 6820 and it’s great but I think she would be under fair pressure to push a front press with paddles while sowing with the 3m one pass.
I am curious about two things if you don’t mind me asking.
What do you mean saying it got a class head gasket?
What hours has she up and what needs refurbishing?
Mine has about 7,500 up now.
Click to expand...
The headgasket was replaced because she was loosing water and we thought it must of been the headgasket. Got it all apart and there was nothing wrong with the headgasket at all. Turned out to be a very small crack in the bottom of the radiator. Head was already off at that stage. So I just went on ahead and put a new headgasket on. And a new radiator :lol:

I’m not just totally sure on the specifics of it now as I did it a few years ago but claas tractors use John Deere engine blocks but they make their own head gasket which is a multi layer? Was quite a bit dearer from memory.

There’s also about 7600 hours on mine now.
The wings were badly rusting on her, I’m putting a new cross shaft in, new bushings where the link arms go to the shaft runs through her belly for the draught control.
Just a general tidy up as well. Repainting bonnet and wheels and tidying up the chassis. Changing all the lights from halogen to led. Extra lights on the steps for mowing. Just a wee bit of work to it.

You’ve maybe seen it in action on the FarmFlix on the pull on YouTube.
 
AHC said:
The headgasket was replaced because she was loosing water and we thought it must of been the headgasket. Got it all apart and there was nothing wrong with the headgasket at all. Turned out to be a very small crack in the bottom of the radiator. Head was already off at that stage. So I just went on ahead and put a new headgasket on. And a new radiator :lol:

I’m not just totally sure on the specifics of it now as I did it a few years ago but claas tractors use John Deere engine blocks but they make their own head gasket which is a multi layer? Was quite a bit dearer from memory.

There’s also about 7600 hours on mine now.
The wings were badly rusting on her, I’m putting a new cross shaft in, new bushings where the link arms go to the shaft runs through her belly for the draught control.
Just a general tidy up as well. Repainting bonnet and wheels and tidying up the chassis. Changing all the lights from halogen to led. Extra lights on the steps for mowing. Just a wee bit of work to it.

You’ve maybe seen it in action on the FarmFlix on the pull on YouTube.
Click to expand...
The Led worklights are a good investment. Those relays in the fuse box get red hot when powering the original halogens and run much cooler with the LEDs.
 
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AHC said:
The headgasket was replaced because she was loosing water and we thought it must of been the headgasket. Got it all apart and there was nothing wrong with the headgasket at all. Turned out to be a very small crack in the bottom of the radiator. Head was already off at that stage. So I just went on ahead and put a new headgasket on. And a new radiator :lol:

I’m not just totally sure on the specifics of it now as I did it a few years ago but claas tractors use John Deere engine blocks but they make their own head gasket which is a multi layer? Was quite a bit dearer from memory.

There’s also about 7600 hours on mine now.
The wings were badly rusting on her, I’m putting a new cross shaft in, new bushings where the link arms go to the shaft runs through her belly for the draught control.
Just a general tidy up as well. Repainting bonnet and wheels and tidying up the chassis. Changing all the lights from halogen to led. Extra lights on the steps for mowing. Just a wee bit of work to it.

You’ve maybe seen it in action on the FarmFlix on the pull on YouTube.
Click to expand...
Ah I see, good to know about the head gasket if mine needs doing at some stage.
I had to replace the radiator about 2 years ago due to a small leak.
The LED lights are on the cards for sometime this year.
My wheels could do with painting too.
I’m not aware of any issues with my cross shaft, how does it show up that it needs work?
I had seen the pull alright but didn’t realise you were on it.
 
KTM 450 said:
Ah I see, good to know about the head gasket if mine needs doing at some stage.
I had to replace the radiator about 2 years ago due to a small leak.
The LED lights are on the cards for sometime this year.
My wheels could do with painting too.
I’m not aware of any issues with my cross shaft, how does it show up that it needs work?
I had seen the pull alright but didn’t realise you were on it.
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Regards your cross shaft, if you can lift an arm up and one side moves well before the other you’ve wear in it. I put it down to the ploughing it has done and the rear mounted mower more weight on one side.
 
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