What are you up to in the workshop?

MF30 said:
While standing at the back of the 6640 when removing the transport pin on the tedder I happened to pass my view past the lift arm on the right side which has the adjuster levelling box at the bottom for setting the right lift arm height. The box is screwed together by a 45mm threaded cap which carries the full weight of the lift arm. What my eye caught was that the cap had slipped out of its threaded housing on one side by a few threads and I decided to investigate. Sure enough the locating grubscrew that prevented the cap from unscrewing had come loose and the threads had become damaged. New parts ordered but wasnt impressed on how fine the threads on the cap were, same with the original toplink which got loose quickly. Lucky for me this didnt part company with a big load on board while on the road.
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My 7740 is different, lift a turnbuckle on the drop arm and turn. have it on both sides.
 
MF30 said:
Around €700! Looking at other options now...
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Ouch. I had a feeling it would be dear , hence my question.


Arthur said:
My 7740 is different, lift a turnbuckle on the drop arm and turn. have it on both sides.
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Something like this ?
20200910_133957.jpg

MF30 said:
I have it back together as threads weren't totally gone, itll keep me tedding for a few days.
Welding not an option as its cast iron!
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You want to take it very handy on the road. If it lets go , it could make bits of your tedder.

I saw both a drum mower and a fertiliser spreader written off , when top link let go.

There were a lot of International tractors around here. The 74/84/85 series had very light drop arms. Many people made a solid drop arm , using 2 pieces of 2" x 3/8 flat welded together , a piece welded at each side at the bottom , with a hole for pin through lift arm , and 2 pieces welded on the flat at top with holes for the knuckle pin at the top.
 
jf 850 said:
Ouch. I had a feeling it would be dear , hence my question.




Something like this ?
View attachment 82136



You want to take it very handy on the road. If it lets go , it could make bits of your tedder.

I saw both a drum mower and a fertiliser spreader written off , when top link let go.

There were a lot of International tractors around here. The 74/84/85 series had very light drop arms. Many people made a solid drop arm , using 2 pieces of 2" x 3/8 flat welded together , a piece welded at each side at the bottom , with a hole for pin through lift arm , and 2 pieces welded on the flat at top with holes for the knuckle pin at the top.
Click to expand...
I wont be using it on the road at all until I get one. I refitted it squarely last night and it never budged during todays tedding session but I need to replace it. Dealer said he never had to sell one before as they dont wear there, just unlucky mine came loose. Hes going to check for me a breaker in the UK who they have used and is confident the part will be good.
 
The levelling box on your tractor costs €30 less than my type!
jf 850 said:
Ouch. I had a feeling it would be dear , hence my question.




Something like this ?
View attachment 82136



You want to take it very handy on the road. If it lets go , it could make bits of your tedder.

I saw both a drum mower and a fertiliser spreader written off , when top link let go.

There were a lot of International tractors around here. The 74/84/85 series had very light drop arms. Many people made a solid drop arm , using 2 pieces of 2" x 3/8 flat welded together , a piece welded at each side at the bottom , with a hole for pin through lift arm , and 2 pieces welded on the flat at top with holes for the knuckle pin at the top.
Click to expand...
 
jf 850 said:
Ouch. I had a feeling it would be dear , hence my question.




Something like this ?
View attachment 82136



You want to take it very handy on the road. If it lets go , it could make bits of your tedder.

I saw both a drum mower and a fertiliser spreader written off , when top link let go.

There were a lot of International tractors around here. The 74/84/85 series had very light drop arms. Many people made a solid drop arm , using 2 pieces of 2" x 3/8 flat welded together , a piece welded at each side at the bottom , with a hole for pin through lift arm , and 2 pieces welded on the flat at top with holes for the knuckle pin at the top.
Click to expand...
I remember Dad saying they had issues with a Nash and poor linkage.
Took the bit to the dealer to complain and were met with a barage of basically insults. How they must have been rough on machinery and poor farmers as it never happened to anyone else etc etc. Dad and his brother were young and had lost their Dad quite recently and taken a big step buying a new tractor. So felt quite bad leaving and having had to pay for a part that should have been under warranty.

Low and behold just out the door was a very well respected farmer with exactly the same part in his hand! The second he'd needed and was in no way a rough operator.
Back in they went! Got the money back and told him to stick his business, they never darkened his door again!

Same lad landed in our yard working for another dealer a few years ago. He was given his marching orders there and then!
 
MF30 said:
I wont be using it on the road at all until I get one. I refitted it squarely last night and it never budged during todays tedding session but I need to replace it. Dealer said he never had to sell one before as they dont wear there, just unlucky mine came loose. Hes going to check for me a breaker in the UK who they have used and is confident the part will be good.
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Is the 10 series much different to it apart from the screw inside the cab versus outside the cab??
 
I’d say you still have serious grip on that but I wonder if you drilled 3 longer grub screws into it so it couldn’t edge out on any side?
 
towbar said:
I’d say you still have serious grip on that but I wonder if you drilled 3 longer grub screws into it so it couldn’t edge out on any side?
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I was thinking that exact same thing, and some threadlock might sort it. Then again you'd be thinking about it while on the road with 1000lts of water in the sprayer or with the 3 furrow reversible on. Itd be fine for a loader tractor or light duty work. Will have to go hunting some dark night and swap with someone elses!
 
Deerehunter said:
I think you can weld it but you'll have to pre heat cast slowly and after welding let it cool slowly. Depending on size of piece it could take hours.
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I'd still be wary of it, as said before if the item on the lift arms crashed to the ground onto a car or worse still a person it'd make a new part cheap. And you'd then still have to buy it. I should have a price for a used part next week, for the moment its holding well. Ploughing will be in October so no panic yet.
 
This setup isnt acceptable.

With the wood chipper removed I have this adapter sticking out, wayyy too big to put the cover on.

I'll have to remove it but its secured with a roll pin, not really designed for taking on and off.
 

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JohnBoy said:
This setup isnt acceptable.

With the wood chipper removed I have this adapter sticking out, wayyy too big to put the cover on.

I'll have to remove it but its secured with a roll pin, not really designed for taking on and off.
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I just have an ordinary bolt and nut through my adaptor, it’s really only there to stop it sliding off.
 
Coolant pump went kaput on the JD 6610 today.
Lucky really as she had been standing mixing on the waggon. Could hear her labouring when I went to feed out and noticed the temp guage waaaay up.
Wasn't on the red but close.

She starts and sounds fine.
But should I look for any other problems now?
How likely is it to have buggered the head gasket?


I looked into fitting a temperature kill switch a few years ago, regret not doing it now!!
 
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