What are you up to in the workshop?
- Thread starter BasilSeal
- Start date
Seen liquid metal used to patch an aluminium diesel tank before after it was punctured. Chap used two layers from the side walls of a coke can as a patch. Worked a treat for years after.
Had a tank leaking on our Valmet. Sent it away to be coated inside and out. Worked great. It was as if the tank was sort of porous. Leaked plenty in summer. Previously it has been sand blasted and got a patch done with chemical metal that worked too.
Last year a weld cracked in the main chassis tank so I used as much fuel as possible and then used the hoover to suck out air/fumes and stop fuel going through the crack, cleaned it with brake cleaner and welded it with the Mig. Lit the brake cleaner and a bit of dry dust I couldn’t get out, but when the fire was out and the welding finished I left the hoover going for another half hour or so to allow all to cool.
Works well. Would rather do a welding job now than any of the quick fixed. Although the coating was a good job, dear but successful as it is internal and external, was done at brownlow radiators Lurgan.
Heard of a man that was in a sail boat in a bad storm and it sprung a leak so he stuck a 1/2 pound of butter into to it .
A few years later he was doing work on the boat and found the butter jammed into where the leak was . There was so much going on in the storm that he completely forgot about using the butter to stop the leak .
MF30
Well-Known Member
Got the cylinder head back today, the engine rebuilder said it was black worn out and everything had to be changed and the head skimmed. Put it all back together, torqued it up and bled it out. Once bled out it started immediately without heat. What used to take 20 seconds of heat and up to ten seconds of cranking just takes half a turn of the key now to start with no heat. Tidy little engine with many applications.
josh
Moderator/IT Guy
Great result. Should be good for another few years now.
MF30
Well-Known Member
The battery and starter motor will be relieved anyway!
bagenal
Well-Known Member
Did you get the head done in Powers?
MF30
Well-Known Member
No, Roberts Engineering in Clonegal. Very reasonable too. Powers do excellent work also.
Seedsower
Well-Known Member
My same/deutz agrotron 150.6 has started getting hot.
Happened last week on the way home from a 2 hour round trip,collecting a big load of turf,15 to 20 ton including trailer.
First such trip in a long time!
She got hot suddenly and blew water out somewhere that we could not see.
After waiting a while and topping up the ester it came home the last 4 miles perfect.
Changed the thermostat and the water (first time since new,just over 10k hours)
Spread slurry a couple of days around home the no issues but no roasld draw.
Went for another load of turf today and she got warm after an hour pulling the empty trailer,so got another tractor to bring the load home.
No bubbles that we can see,took about 5 litres of water same as last time,no sign of water in oil
Suggestions include radiator blocked internally or head gasket (ouch)
Any further ideas/suggestions?
Happened last week on the way home from a 2 hour round trip,collecting a big load of turf,15 to 20 ton including trailer.
First such trip in a long time!
She got hot suddenly and blew water out somewhere that we could not see.
After waiting a while and topping up the ester it came home the last 4 miles perfect.
Changed the thermostat and the water (first time since new,just over 10k hours)
Spread slurry a couple of days around home the no issues but no roasld draw.
Went for another load of turf today and she got warm after an hour pulling the empty trailer,so got another tractor to bring the load home.
No bubbles that we can see,took about 5 litres of water same as last time,no sign of water in oil
Suggestions include radiator blocked internally or head gasket (ouch)
Any further ideas/suggestions?
ithastopay
Well-Known Member
Climate change?
I can never understand why that happens … youd think the water would push the bubble through the system in front of it ?
johndeere6920s
Well-Known Member
Water pump?
Avoid getting them engines hot they can crack the block
MF30
Well-Known Member
When you said you changed the water for the first time in ten years, if it was coolant the corrosion inhibitors are long past their best and internal blocking of the rad is possible and most likely. It was hardly just water? What was it like for cleanliness when you drained it?
Seedsower
Well-Known Member
As far as I know water pumps either work.or not and when they fail its bearings that get loose and water.leaks.out through around the shaft?
Could it loose most of its pumping power??
My mechanic is suggesting taking the centre out of the old thermostat and putting it back, I can't see 2 thermostats.being faulty though.
It's only happening after a good hard drive so whatever that means I don't know.
Maybe the radiator wants cleaning internally?
I am afraid its the head gasket.
The small pipes to the header tank were a bit dirty but we cleaned them.out before today.
Could it loose most of its pumping power??
My mechanic is suggesting taking the centre out of the old thermostat and putting it back, I can't see 2 thermostats.being faulty though.
It's only happening after a good hard drive so whatever that means I don't know.
Maybe the radiator wants cleaning internally?
I am afraid its the head gasket.
The small pipes to the header tank were a bit dirty but we cleaned them.out before today.
Win
Well-Known Member
Is there a viscous fan on it? Normally a blockage causes more of a gradual heat build up, a friend had a jd 6900 doing a similar thing last spring, he was convinced it was everything except the headgasket because it had been done before. That would randomly overheat and quickly too, it was the headgasket again much to his annoyance.
c4l
Well-Known Member
took steering pump off the tm. was well scored on the inside. have to get a new one. as it originally stripped the threads on the main hydraulic pump housing, the holes were drilled larger from 10mm to 12mm and rethreaded. and to take the bigger bolts, the original steering pump had to be drilled.
heres my question, can helicoils be used in the holes in the hydraulic pump housing even if the threads are perfect? reason being as the new pump would have to be drilled out to take the larger studs. we sourced a 2nd hand pump and if it isnt scored on the inside, we be flying at a fraction of the cost (from what we gather the 2nd hand one was replaced as they did the kingpins on the steering and the steering went well tight. they changed the pump to no avail. changed the orbital unit which helped a little bit. didnt help that there was a front loader on the tractor).
also where can helicoils be got?
heres my question, can helicoils be used in the holes in the hydraulic pump housing even if the threads are perfect? reason being as the new pump would have to be drilled out to take the larger studs. we sourced a 2nd hand pump and if it isnt scored on the inside, we be flying at a fraction of the cost (from what we gather the 2nd hand one was replaced as they did the kingpins on the steering and the steering went well tight. they changed the pump to no avail. changed the orbital unit which helped a little bit. didnt help that there was a front loader on the tractor).
also where can helicoils be got?
AYF
Well-Known Member
That's not too bad at all.
Would hardly need a tip on it tbh.
Anyone with a link to that firm who make them crowd and tip very far?
drew
Well-Known Member
This is possibly the one your thinking off?
Q Hitch - Hood Engineering & Agri Parts
The Hood Engineering Q hitch has been designed to reduce time and […]
hoodengineeringni.co.uk
Without the hyd top link if you had a longer spacing up to top link hole it would help crowd it back