What are you up to in the workshop?

Serious work , you may get someone to print out decals would really finish it off . That’s probably better than it left the factory
Yeah someone is coming out to measure the ones on the other spreader, would be nice to have them on before we use it.
 

Serious work , you may get someone to print out decals would really finish it off . That’s probably better than it left the factory
I think it was this crowd https://www.lotusdesignsni.com/ that advertised decals on done deal, they are in NI so should be no bother posting to you
 
The cousin owns a mint kuhn fertilizer twin spinner and can't be stopped from bending the levers on the front. he puts in a massive top link, the type with the removeable ball and pulls the spool valve, then the ram shoots over and bends the levers against the end of top link. looks like i have to cut down the levers so they don't hit the top link. he wants to weld the levers together so the mechanism to disable one side is defeated, since he keeps twisting up the levers and ending with one spinner not closing. I thought about welding a strap behind the top link so that he would be forced to use the lower hole (there's two), or a smaller top link.
it's really a shame but i understand making the thing foolproof, and when a machine is too complex the extra features don't tend to get used.

I was changing the oils on the mower last week but couldn’t remove the breather/filler plug on one of the gearboxes, so have been squirting penetrating fluid on it for the past ten days.
Went at it this morning and still no budge so went all “evenflow” on it (come on ya bastard) and gave it a bit more force and then this happened
View attachment 136028
View attachment 136029
Any suggestions/ hints on its extraction?
Looks to be like brass in a cast gearbox housing and it is tight, very tight.
Tried at it with a little chisel but just chips off little pieces that fall down into the gearbox.

get a square metal file and turn that round hole into a square hole. then push in your 1/2" extension bar into the hole you just made and turn the breaker bar.
 
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Lads have a sheared bolt in a blind hole have it drilled out right angle drill adapter and a reverse drill bit and now it`s loose . But it`s still 10mm deep in the hole .Drill is now only spinning it on the spot cant bite in to it to bring it out . Anyone got a idea how to extract it . It`s only an 8mm hole . Have a magnet pick up tool but magnet is too big .
 
Lads have a sheared bolt in a blind hole have it drilled out right angle drill adapter and a reverse drill bit and now it`s loose . But it`s still 10mm deep in the hole .Drill is now only spinning it on the spot cant bite in to it to bring it out . Anyone got an idea how to extract it . It`s only an 8mm hole . Have a magnet pick up tool but magnet is too big .
Is it turning in the threads or just floating loose in the bottom? Would a long torx tap into it and thread it on out?

Or if it’s very loose would a small pick with a bend on the end manage to snag it and bring it out
 
The drill bit has it spun out of the threads . It feels to be just sitting on the outer casing now . The drill bit has little to no hole drilled in it i`d say so cant drive a torx in to it can feel it wiggle with a screw drive . This is the second one , First was the same but hole wasnt blind so tipped out the stub from the otherside .
Is it turning in the threads or just floating loose in the bottom? Would a long torx tap into it and thread it on out?

Or if it’s very loose would a small pick with a bend on the end manage to snag it and bring it out
 
The drill bit has it spun out of the threads . It feels to be just sitting on the outer casing now . The drill bit has little to no hole drilled in it i`d say so cant drive a torx in to it can feel it wiggle with a screw drive . This is the second one , First was the same but hole wasnt blind so tipped out the stub from the otherside .
Any chance of a touch of the arc welder, have done it before with the rod loose in the holder, then when it strikes pull back leaving the rod stuck to the stud if you get me?
 
Hardly have a screw bit holder, one with the magnet, cut it just so the magnet should be able to touch it. Or the arc welder at really low amps so it sticks.
 
A small job, that I was picking away at, over the last few days. Today's welcome sunshine was great for drying the paint.
Anyone want to hazard a guess, as to their intended purpose?
 

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Possibly but why 5 of them?
@Agri-Eng they are well engineered and welded, whatever they are for they won’t break.
Yes, we got the two mechanisms/linkages for the MF 30 grain drill from @MF30 last year, but as it was getting late in the season they never got fitted then.
In the interim, as the genuine MF times are now an obsolete parts, we end up sourcing a set of eradicator tines, with helper springs, from Spalding's, which I think are for an Amazone drill.
A small bit of measuring up, a couple of lunch times drawing up what was needed, and with a bit of help from a very talented local man, who built his own CNC plasma cutter from scratch, the clamps in the photos were the end result.
They turned out better than I thought they would, as I drew up the dxfs to cut the plates with slots and tabs, so everything fits together like Lego and self jigs/aligns, without the need for trying to clamp them together, while keeping everything square at the same time.
We only need 4, but I always like to have a few spares in stock, just in case, so I got my CNC plasma man to make up 5. We used 10mm plate to make them, but we probably could have gone a bit lighter and used 8mm plate.
 

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